Lawn problems
Lawn disease covers all areas of bugs, fungus and mosses, all problems we could well do without. I have covered a few to start off with but hopefully I will be revisiting this site regularly to add and update it as and when I find out new facts and hopefully take up your ideas and try out your suggestions.
Lawn Fungus
Prime time for these blighters to rear their heads seems to be late in August and through to October. These two are the most common in the UK.
Laetisaria fuciformis - Red Thread – is a fungal infection which causes the lawn to turn brown in patches. It is prevalent when we have wet summers like the last we have just suffered here in the UK.the affected areas develop a reddish hue which then turns brown. To reverse the affects of the red thread you can apply nitrogen to the lawn 15g per sq m.
Marasmius oreades – a saprophytic fungus which creates fairy rings – sounds attractive and in a woodland area it is great for imaginative children. However it is not so welcome in the lawn in the garden. The damage these rings can cause can be extensive and chemical fungicides are not available to the home gardener. The use of wetting agents and bio stimulants has been recommended by manufacturers, some have active ingredients which prevent the fungi from breathing. These are not commercially available and can be only used by companies complying with COSHH regulations.
Lawn Fungus Solution
The solution to the problem of fungi is first-class drainage; so aerating the soil will be your first step. Not allowing your lawn to have a low ph value will also help turn the tide a Ph value of 5.8-6.8 is good. Thirdly I would suggest that you have a minimal thatch layer as this will clearly harbour fungus spores.
Watering needs to be done regularly but not frequently and it needs to be thorough so that the grass roots grow deep into the soil where the water is and not remain superficially on the surface.
The only sure fire way of riding the lawn of a serious fungal infestation is to remove totally the earth affected to the depth of at least 12 inches which sounds really drastic but any less and the spores will have penetrated. Then you will need to replace the soil from either your compost bin or buy in and re turf. Clearly this is not something you really want to engage in if you can help it, prevention is better than cure.
Lawn Moss
This is a symptom of a lawn in trouble. Unfortunately it is not something that you think you can get rid of with one application of a topical moss killer – that will do the job don’t get me wrong but only in the short term- as Arnie was so fond of saying ”I’ll be back”.
Moss a non flowering plant is spread by spores; it loves a variety of conditions and can return if not monitored.
You need to address the underlying problem and that solution may well be I can’t grow grass here I’ll have to look at other options. I had this problem at the back of my bamboo – too shady and waterlogged for grass but the moss loved it. Changing the conditon of the soil and using an appropriate seed form dark shady areas menat the problem was solved. There are many different types of grass seed out there on the market one is bound to be right for your garden conditions.
You will need to analyse the moss problem in your lawn. The moss will have to be killed off with a topical moss killer and then the remedial work will begin. It is important once the moss has all gone black to be raked out of the lawn usually about two weeks after you have administered the Moss killer. This raking will remove the unsightly brown patches and give you a good surface area to work with. Do not rake it out too early otherwise you may unwittingly spread the moss spores. Once you have vigorous growing grass moss will find it hard to compete.
Lawn Moss Solution
Is the Lawn area
- Too shaded
- You can initially remove all the moss with a moss killer and then reseed with a sturdier seed specifically designed for shaded areas of lawn. This type of seed would include a higher percentage of slower growing grasses like the fescues.
- Too waterlogged
- You would need to improve the quality of your soil by using and aerator to open up the soil and by brushing in sand. This will improve the drainage of the soil and therefore prevent the moss getting a good foothold.
- Too dry
- If your soil is too dry and this is something which more of us have to deal with due to the change in climate, it would be a good idea to begin to incorporate more drought hardy seed varieties to ensure deep roots. If you soil is sandy you could use an aerator to open up the soil and then you will be able to brush in peat which will improve the moisture content allowing the grass there to establish a good root system.
- Too compact
- This compaction is due to heavy use and this can be combated with a sturdier heavy duty seed like ryegrass which is tolerant and repairs quickly otherwise the moss will take a foothold.
- Too acidic
- This is a sour soil problem which needs to be addressed prior to further reseeding. It may be necessary to dig over the area entirely correcting the soil imbalance with lime. The soil balance for a successful lawn should be around the ph of 6.5. You can buy soil analysing kits to help you assess if this is your problem.
- Cut too short
- Cutting the lawn too short may seem like a good idea in as much as you won’t have to cut it so often. I think we have all been guilty of this one in the past. However in reality it can do more harm than good a well maintained lawn should have a cut grass length of between ¾ to and 1 inch in height.
- Too much thatch
- When there is excessive thatch in the lawn this provides a wonderful ecosystem for the moss. By removing this layer you will enable light moisture and air through to the soil which will destroy the environment the moss has been thriving on.
